Cruden Bay and the Dracula Castle

To Cruden Bay, for three of the northeast coast's main attractions, Slains Castle, the Bullers of Buchan, and the Bay of Cruden.

I first came this way in the late 90s, and had both Slains Castle and the Bullers of Buchan to myself. Today could not have been more different. Slains Castle in particular was hoaching with tourists, and we felt we couldn't let the dog off the lead. However the two attractions are only 2km apart along a spectacular coastal path, and it makes sense to park at one, say the Bullers, and walk to the other and back. Care needs to be taken as people have died on this coastal path, but on a dry summer's day with good shoes, the path did not seem dangerous. Stepping off it would be another matter.

I'd recommend starting at the Bullers of Buchan. The extended coast both north and south is spectacular, but the highlight - a collapsed sea-cave called The Pot - is just a few hundred metres from the car park. The pong of guano hits you as you peer into its depths, wildlfowers on the clifftop. A narrow path goes all the way around for the intrepid, but nobody we saw today wanted to do so.

The Pot:

South of The Pot, 100ft high seacliffs lead past the sea stack Dunbuy as Slains Castle comes into view. 

Approaching Slains Castle:

On a dry day in summer this is by far the more pleasant approach to Slains Castle, as you only meet the hordes of tourists at the castle itself. 

At Slains:
 

The popularity of Slains Castle is based on three things. First, its accessibility - a flat, easy walk from the car park along a gravel path; second, its location - perched on the edge of a seacliff; and third, a myth - the idea this spectacular ruin inspired Bram Stoker to write Dracula. Unlike the equally spectacular Dunottar its fame isn't based on any history, as the castle seen today is basically a 19th century mansion. Looking good in pictures and being tenuously linked to Dracula is enough. I think a foggy day with nobody else about would be the best way to approach this jagged ruin. 

Dunbuy detail on the way back:

After these two highlights, it was down to Cruden Bay to relax. The Bay of Cruden itself is an attractive beach, a gentle 2km curve of yellow sand with a holiday atmosphere at Port Erroll, children with buckets and spades paddling in the Water of Cruden, ice cream for sale and car parking. You could happily spend the rest of the day here, but we didn't stay long. We were intent on a much wilder beach further north, one where few tourists go...